Mexico Smackdown: Los Cabos vs. Cancún and Riviera Maya Part 2

Cancún/Riviera Maya

Mayan ruins overlooking the beach in Tulum (Photo: Boris G/Flickr)

The case: Erase any lingering memories of your Girls Gone Wild spring break days (although truth be told, if you are looking for it, you can certainly find it here). This east coast resort destination is a whole new world these days. The area stretches from just south of Cancún down the coast to the happening town of Playa del Carmen, to the hippie-chic enclave on Tulum, to the family-friendly Akumal, ending in nobody-really-goes-there Felipe Carillo Puerto. There are incomparable cultural attractions, awesome natural phenomena, endless food and lodging options, and just as many activities at every turn. Riviera Maya’s powder sand beaches on the brilliantly turquoise Caribbean Sea are among the world’s most picturesque.

Population: 70,000

Famous faces: Sofía Vergara has been known to hole up at the intimate Rosewood Mayakoba, as has Jessica Alba and family. Antonio Banderas can be spotted dancing late nights at the discos. And perennially at-the-beach Leonardo DiCaprio is a fan of the barefoot Ana y Jose in Tulum.

Jessica Alba vacations in Cancun with her family. (Photo: SplashNews)

Where to stay: Resorts line the Riviera Maya, so there’s something for everyone. At Banyan Tree Mayakoba, each room comes with a private plunge pool. Tulum has become a nexus for the fashion set, where the epicenter of chic is Coqui Coqui Tulum, owned by a former model. The Akumal Beach Resort is a hidden and affordable secret frequented by families. And don’t let the phrase “all inclusive” fool you at Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita: This intimate collection of 90 rooms has loads of charm, excellent service, and a distinctly zen vibe. Each of the suites is spacious, sea-facing, and individually appointed with treasures from around the world. Standard inclusions go beyond free-flowing food and drink, with sunset sails, welcome massages, and use of the spa’s thalasso pool that overlooks the beach and yacht launch.

(Photo: Banyan Tree Mayokoba)

Transportation of choice: Taxis are readily available at hotel carriage entrances and major attractions. However, fares should be haggled and agreed upon in advance. For a set price, hire a driver from one of the many ground transportation providers. AMStar has a seemingly endless roster of friendly English-speaking drivers.

(Photo: Getty Images)

Cultural excursion: One of the region’s major draws is the myriad pre-Colombia Mayan ruin sites. Every hotel has an excursion to the biggies — Chichen Itza and the oceanfront Tulum ruins. A day trip to the lesser-known Cobá is a real treat. Boasting a pyramid taller than Chichen Itza, a variety of religious buildings, games courts, and other ruins, this sprawling Mayan city rambles throughout lush jungle foliage. Rent bikes or hire a rickshaw to transverse the blissfully nontouristy site.

Chichen Itza (Photo: Stacey McNaught/Flickr)

Action excursion: Just off the coast is the world’s second-largest reef system, so obviously snorkeling is tops, but shark swimming is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. May through September, take a day trip to nearby Isla Holbox with Cancun Whale Shark Tours, and you’ll splash and paddle around with the giant animals. Now while they aren’t the Jaws variety, whale sharks are large, gentle plankton-feeders, distinguishable by their pretty spotted patterns.

Your chance to swim with the sharks (Photo: Photographydiver.com)

Best beach: Quite frankly, all the Riviera Maya beaches are postcard-prefect with talc soft, brilliantly white sands set against crystalline waters. Tulum is a standout for its awesome body surfing conditions and the fact that it is positioned beneath the central structure of the Mayan ruins of the same name. Note: Beach access depends on the tides.

Best pool: With infinity, swim-up, and personal villa pools abound across the region, it’s difficult to pick a top spot. The rooftop outpost at the brand-new Hotel Cacao in Playa del Carmen gets props for its position (literally) high above the buzzy Fifth Avenue, with its hip vibe and unbeatable top-of-the-world ocean and town views.

What to buy: The lure of stocking up on cheapie souvenirs is strong. An authentic and not-so-expensive take-home is vanilla, in all its forms. True, liquid vanilla can be found for about $1 at big-box stores. If you are shopping at a mercado, look at the ingredient list (Water should not be listed first.), and know that haggling is expected.

Typical dish: Cuisine of the Yucatán combines European, Mexican, and Mayan tastes and techniques. The hallmark cochinita pibil is made of slow-roasted pork in a pumpkin sauce, wrapped in a banana leaf. Labná excels at the dish, along with other regional specialties, including chimole (turkey with mole sauce) and atole (a corn, allspice, sugar, and chocolate dessert).


Cochinita pibil (Photo: Jennifer Woodard Maderazo/Flickr)

Nightlife: There’s no shortage of watering holes and nightclubs throughout the Riviera Maya, but there is only one Coco Bongo. The enormous, pulsating discothèque with multiple dance floors has all the usual nightclub accoutrements of booming music, flashing lights, and free-flowing tequila, along with only-found-here, spectacular play-back shows. Performers lip-synch, dance, and even perform acrobatics above the dancers dressed as popular groups (e.g., Guns N’ Roses, ‘N Sync), pop stars (e.g., Michael Jackson, Madonna, Beyoncé), and movie characters. Aside: Technically, there are two clubs: one in Playa del Carmen and a larger spot in Cancún.

Wild times can be had at Coco Bongo. (Photo: Flickr/Cristian)

Top chef outpost: The famed Spanish chef, Basque cuisine master, and holder of a whopping seven Michelin stars in his home country, Martín Berasategui helms the modern Passion at the adults-only Paradisus Playa del Carmen la Perla.

Jenna Mahoney is a Brooklyn-based travel editor, lifestyle writer, and author of Small Apartment Hacks. Twitter: @srajennamahoney

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